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Honduras Update Letter - 12

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Merry Christmas!

December 15, 2001

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

 

We would like to begin this letter, by sending a big “Congratulations!” to Nicole (Shawn’s sister) and Nick (her new fiancé) on their recent December engagement.  We are both so excited for them.  What a great Christmas surprise! 

To those of you worrying about Christmas letters, cards or packages you have sent to Honduras in the last month or so, worry not.  After some of you wrote asking if we had received what you sent, we started getting suspicious, as we have not received any mail for at least 3-4 weeks.  We made a trip to the post office in our department capitol, Choluteca and were informed that the Honduran postal workers had been on strike.  Apparently, the employees weren’t being paid, or weren’t being paid enough (we have heard a few versions of the story) so they refused to send any mail through the system.  According to the woman we talked to, the strike is over and we should be receiving our mail very soon as the log jam of mail begins to break.  We are learning to be very patient in this country, and are excited to get our mail!  It will make for a nice batch of Christmas cheer even if it arrives after Christmas!  

I just got done baking Lasagna in my toaster oven!  This is a major accomplishment for the week.  Shawn and I celebrated our "month-a-versary" today and I was proud of myself for making a gourmet meal.  When we got married on May 12, 2000 , Father Reiser (our priest), instructed us to celebrate our marriage on the 12th of every month as a way to keep our relationship alive and growing.  Each month Shawn is to bring me flowers and I am to make him a wonderful meal.  This December we celebrated 19 months of marriage.  During that time we have not missed a "month-a-versary" celebration.  This month we celebrated a couple days late because we were gone all week at a Municipal Development conference for Shawn’s work sector.  The conference was held on a small Pacific island called, El Tigre, in the municipality of Amapala , off the coast of Honduras .  The island actually is surrounded by El Salvador , Honduras and Nicaragua .  You can see all three countries at once.  It is a beautiful, yet very primitive island.  My former boss, Lee (General Manager for DoubleTree Park Place Hotel in Minneapolis ) wrote to ask how the conference went.  He hoped that we were able to relax in a nice hotel with some modern conveniences.  Well, our accommodations were a little different from the DoubleTree Hilton property where I used to work! I will explain… 

For starters, Shawn and I slept in someone's kitchen!  While attending the conference, we stayed with one of 90 families who are participating in a “Bed and Breakfast” project started by a Peace Corps volunteer, Peter Von Dor Leep, who is helping the island expand its tourism industry.  Our group was the first to test out the “Bed and Breakfast” home stay experience.  The simple living conditions reflect the simple standard of living that is a reality on the island.  The family that Shawn and I stayed with had a small two-room home made of cement.  One room was a living area with a TV and a couple of chairs.  The other room was a kitchen and bedroom all in one.  The family also owned a small wooden shack on the beach that they used for selling refreshments. While we stayed at their house, the dad, mom and kids slept on the beach in hammocks.  This “second home” was a sign of wealth on the island.   

It cost us $6 per night, per person, to rent their home.  The bed was clean and accommodating.  However, there was no privacy.  The daughter slept on the living room floor on a straw mat.  Each morning around 6 AM , as we were sleeping, she would tiptoe into our room (like Shaggy or Scooby from “Scoobydoo”) to boil milk for our hot, soggy cornflake breakfast.  Her closet was also in our rented room, so she would come in and out to get clothes or hair bands or whatever else she needed.  The door between the living room and bedroom was a screen door, so this made changing into a swimsuit or pajamas quite challenging.   I wasn’t used to so much “togetherness”.  As an American tourist I am accustomed having the place I rent all to myself.  As a Peace Corps volunteer, I am used to the concept of host families.  This experience seemed like a combination of both. 

The other thing that I wasn't ready for was the latrine.  I am spoiled in Concepción de Maria with my flush toilet.  Yes, our latrine has a flush toilet, and just the fact that it flushes is a beautiful thing!  As you read on, you will understand.  When we returned to our "guest home", after our conference sessions and group dinner, it was dark.  Shawn walked outside with me to find the "bathroom".  To our surprise, the latrine was a cement hole, with a box in the corner for discarding toilet paper.   The box and rim of the cement opening were crawling with mammoth size cockroaches.  I whimpered and whined and told Shawn that I could hold it.  He told me to pull myself together and proceed with our bathroom mission.  Using the tiny flashlight he keeps on a chain around his neck, he scared away the roaches and the scorpion that was hunting the roaches.  What would I do without him?  I tried to avoid the smell by using one hand to hold my T-shirt over both my mouth and nose.  This only slightly protected me from the stench.

Although, they have some work to do to polish up their services, the experience was intriguing and eye-opening.  We met a very generous family, had a great time staying by the ocean, and ate fresh seafood each day for lunch and dinner.  During session breaks we would go swimming (everyone came to the seminars prepared, with swimsuits under their “professional” Peace Corps attire).  I got to do some hiking and Shawn went fishing one morning.  The most exciting part of the week was seeing a project where people are bettering their lives.  I hope the dream of increasing tourism on the island will become a reality.  Everything takes time.

We returned to Concepción de Maria on Friday, December 14th and began preparing for Christmas.  My sister asked me the other day if it feels different here.  Being from Minnesota , I have to admit the hot weather seems a bit odd, especially when I walk outside into the extreme heat.  Because it is the dry season here, our neighbors tease us that the dust on the trees could be our “white Christmas”. 

 

December 26, 2001

I decided to finish this letter after Christmas to share how we celebrated the holidays.  This Christmas we were blessed to celebrate with two different families.  The “Mayorga” family lives up the hill from us.  Rafael is a retired bus driver and his wife, Azusena, is a nurse at the Health Center in town.  They have three children.  Sandra and Ruth, their daughters, are similar in age to Shawn and me.  They are both married and each has a little girl.  Rafael Jr., their only son, is a junior in high school.  They invited us to go to their cabin in the woods for the day on December 23rd, for a special Christmas dinner.   Shawn and I were happy to be invited to their celebration, as they are a very warm and welcoming family.  Celebrating with others during the holiday season helped our home-sickness.

Christmas Eve is the popular day to celebrate Christmas in Honduras .  We will spent Christmas Eve with our neighbors, Miguel and Gloria Galinda, from whom we rent our apartment.  You can meet their kids by visiting our website.  They have five precious children; Yelsy, Estefani, Anyi, Hector and Jennifer Maria.  Their oldest daughter, Yelsy (pronounced, Chelsey) is in 6th grade.  She graduated on December 19th and will enter high school next year.  As part of her elementary school graduation, the students choose a couple in the community to be their sponsors and walk them down the aisle to receive their diploma.  Yelsy asked Shawn and I to be the special couple.  She refers to us as her “school Godparents”.  It was quite an honor and Yelsy was so excited to have the “gringos” (Spanish for “American foreigners”) walk her down the aisle.  Shawn’s favorite part was that the graduation ceremony, with only 25 students, lasted 5 hours; a stark contrast to our high school graduation, which had 720 students and lasted only an hour and a half.  It was as if they were being blessed, married, and receiving their doctorate degrees all in one. 

Jennifer Maria is the youngest daughter of the Galinda family.  She was born in November of this year.  She is adorable with her delicate features and pierced ears (a common Latin American tradition is to pierce the ears of girls soon after birth.)  Gloria, our landlady, gave birth to Jennifer at home.  Shawn and I were astounded and impressed that she had the baby one day and was outside on our patio the next day hanging up laundry.   I told Shawn not to get any ideas.  When we have children I will take advantage of any extra time in the hospital I can get. 

Gloria’s parents, who live two doors down from our apartment, also celebrated with us.  After Christmas Eve Mass and turkey dinner, beginning around midnight we walked around town looking at different nativity scenes people had prepared outside their homes.  We found this to be a fascinating tradition.  Creativity was definitely encouraged.  Children decorated their “nativity towns” with toy trucks, paper airplanes, baby dolls, plastic army men, action figures, toy animal statues, roads made from saw dust, little ponds formed in large bowls, etc.  Somewhere in the grand nativity village Mary, Joseph and Baby Jesus could be found.  Jesus was covered by a blanket and only unveiled after 1:OO AM, when he was believed to be born.  Around the same time, many people filled the streets letting off firecrackers and rockets as if it were the 4th of July.   

[Shawn’s turn to write] 

Speaking of Christmas….Christmas reminds me family and traditions.  We (the Silveras) spent many Christmases with my Grandma Johnson, who passed away two years ago.  I was reminded of her yesterday as I made some popcorn as a snack for Jennifer and me.  Since we don’t have a popcorn maker, or microwave, or air popper, I had to make it in a kettle.  As I was preparing it, a scene from my past flashed into my mind.  When I was about 12 years old, I was at my grandmother’s house making popcorn.  I ended up with a chunky burnt mess.  I remember my grandma being kind and gentle, telling me that she burned stuff on the stove all the time.  She then told me “You know Shawn, the best way to make really good popcorn is make sure the oil is really hot before you add the kernels.”  It is amazing what the mind can remember.  As I was preparing the oil, I apparently let it get too hot and smoke started rolling out of the kettle.  I had to evacuate the pan outside to keep the house from completely filling up with smoke.  I decided to try again with a bit more diligence, less heat, and a new kettle.  The results were a great batch of popcorn that was quickly devoured.  I’m pretty sure it turned out so good because I started with “really hot oil”!

Another grandparent story relates to Jennifer’s grandparents who were, for many years, farmers.  I visited their farm only once, but remember thinking that I could be a farmer; lots of hard work, living off the land, and driving a big tractor, what else could a guy hope for?  I had the chance the other day to get my wish and at least pretend to be a Honduran farmer. 

Here is a little excerpt from my “Mundane Page of Daily Activities

I got up at 5:30 AM this morning to meet with my neighbor Don Lito who was gracious enough to invite me along for the morning ritual of “Ordeñando las vacas” or milking the cows.

Don Lito and I walked for about five minutes up the road to his pasture. Corralled in with wooden posts and a barbed wire fence were two huge cows.  Honduran cows are huge, about 1 ½ times the size of a Minnesota cow.  If you remember the old commercial for Schlitz Malt Liquor with the big huge bull, these are the kind of cows they were.  Don Lito let the first calf out, from a separate corral, to find its mother for some morning milk. 

Cleaning off the cow’s utter with some water and a washcloth, Don Lito then proceeded to milk by hand with no stool or anything to sit on.  I gave it a try and found that it was much harder to do than it appeared.  Don Lito had the technique down perfect and shot milk into the bucket like a machine.  My technique needed some practice and became sporadic as the milk was depleted from the cow.

After finishing with the first cow, we set a two gallon bucket of milk on the nearby stone fence.  The second cow was a little different and harder to milk.  As we were milking, Don Lito jumped up and started screaming at the other cow, who had climbed up on top of a stone troth, used years ago for feeding many more cows, and had managed to tip over the entire bucket of milk.  Don Lito, in true Honduran farmer fashion, picked up a stick and started beating the back end of the cow and chasing it around the small field.  He yelled some obscenities in Spanish and told the cow that it was receiving punishment for tipping over the milk. 

Returning to the task at hand, Don Lito finished filling a much smaller bucket of milk from the smaller cow.  He then looked at the two gallons that had been spilled on the ground and went back to chasing the cow with a small stick, whacking it in the hind end whenever he was within striking distance.  I think he realized how silly he looked because he gave me a big grin when he came back and we both laughed about the whole thing. 

Don Lito was thrilled to have been the first person to have taught me how to milk a cow.  I told him I would come with him another day and bring Jennifer with me.  He told me when I go home (to Minnesota) that I will have to convince Jennifer that we should buy a cow so we don’t have to buy milk.

Since music is one of our favorite parts of the holiday season, we will end with our favorite Christmas Carol:

Oh, Come all Ye Faithful, Joyful and Triumphant. 

Oh, come Ye, oh, come Ye, to Bethlehem. 

Come and behold Him, born the King of angels. 

 

Oh, come let us adore Him;

Oh, come let us adore Him;

Oh, come let us adore Him,

Christ the Lord!

Blessings to all of you during this Christmas week!

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